Domaine de la Pinte

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Domaine de la Pinte, Arbois, Jura, and one of the biggest biodynamic estates in the region, which is saying something in a place full of tiny family domaines. Roger Martin founded it in 1953 on a lieu-dit called La Pinte à la Capitaine, sitting on blue Lias marl right on the edge of Arbois. He planted 14 hectares, almost all Savagnin, which made it the largest Savagnin estate around back then.

His son Pierre Martin runs it now and has grown it to 34 hectares, nearly all in one block, around Arbois and Pupillin. Seventeen of those are Savagnin, plus Chardonnay, Poulsard, Trousseau and a little Pinot Noir. The whole lot is organic and biodynamic, Biodyvin certified, hand harvested, with indigenous yeasts, limited sulphur and as much gravity work as possible in the cellar.

For a long time it was a pretty discreet address, and quality had its ups and downs over the years. These days it’s firing, and it’s still absurdly good value. Savagnin Ouillé, topped up in the barrel for 36 months, is tense, mineral and clean, a more approachable take than the oxidative style. The Chardonnay is fine and luminous, and Pinte Bien, a juicy Poulsard, is light, fruity and fresh at 12 percent. A la Capitaine blends Poulsard and Pinot Noir off red marl, and the Trousseau is the spicy, serious one. There’s vin jaune too, and an excellent Crémant du Jura.

You can wander the big vaulted cellars in the Jura tradition, taste at the shop in Arbois, and even eat at La Table de Pierre, where the chef cooks with local seasonal produce from Jura growers.

Jura’s a region where the little guys get all the attention. La Pinte is a gentle reminder that the big old estates can be just as exciting.

Domaine de la Pinte, Arbois, Jura, and one of the biggest biodynamic estates in the region, which is saying something in a place full of tiny family domaines. Roger Martin founded it in 1953 on a lieu-dit called La Pinte à la Capitaine, sitting on blue Lias marl right on the edge of Arbois. He planted 14 hectares, almost all Savagnin, which made it the largest Savagnin estate around back then.

His son Pierre Martin runs it now and has grown it to 34 hectares, nearly all in one block, around Arbois and Pupillin. Seventeen of those are Savagnin, plus Chardonnay, Poulsard, Trousseau and a little Pinot Noir. The whole lot is organic and biodynamic, Biodyvin certified, hand harvested, with indigenous yeasts, limited sulphur and as much gravity work as possible in the cellar.

For a long time it was a pretty discreet address, and quality had its ups and downs over the years. These days it’s firing, and it’s still absurdly good value. Savagnin Ouillé, topped up in the barrel for 36 months, is tense, mineral and clean, a more approachable take than the oxidative style. The Chardonnay is fine and luminous, and Pinte Bien, a juicy Poulsard, is light, fruity and fresh at 12 percent. A la Capitaine blends Poulsard and Pinot Noir off red marl, and the Trousseau is the spicy, serious one. There’s vin jaune too, and an excellent Crémant du Jura.

You can wander the big vaulted cellars in the Jura tradition, taste at the shop in Arbois, and even eat at La Table de Pierre, where the chef cooks with local seasonal produce from Jura growers.

Jura’s a region where the little guys get all the attention. La Pinte is a gentle reminder that the big old estates can be just as exciting.